The Wild and Wonderful Gaspesie

Departing the village of Tadoussac

A Freighter Emerges Out of the Fog

Leaving Tadoussac, we crossed the St. Lawrence River to the south eastern side entering an area called the Gaspesie.  This is the coastal area of the Gaspe Peninsula, it is remote and beautiful.  It is also the northernmost extent of the Appalachian Mountains where they reach the St. Lawrence River and plunge into the sea. In this area the villages are smaller and often perched high above the river.

The Marina at Rimouski

Our first stop was Rimouski, one of the larger towns along this stretch.  The marina was surprisingly large and busy.  The main attraction was the museum, a memorial of sorts, to the Empress of Ireland.  This lovely old steamship was lost in these waters in 1914. She had just dropped off mail in Rimouski and was headed down river on her 192nd crossing of the Atlantic when she went into the fog and was struck broadside by a freighter heading upstream.  This tragedy holds the dubious record  for the number of passengers lost (1012).  The Titanic lost more people when counting both passengers and crew.  We had recently learned the story of this tragedy and were interested in the museum so we unloaded the bikes and rode the three miles to the museum.  Unfortunately, the wind was strong and directly in our faces making the ride arduous.  It was well worth the effort as it was fascinating. Nearby was the Pointe-au-Pere Lighthouse, we climbed the 128 steps to the top for a magnificent view of the St. Lawrence River. 

Museum to the Empress of Ireland

The Pointe-au-Pere Lighthouse

The ride back to the marina was fun as we had the wind to our backs! Departing Rimouski on a cloudy day, we encountered a few more swells than the weather report indicated.  We had some rain but it was an uneventful ride. It was a surreal experience when we spotted (on our radar) the buoy marking the site of the remains of the Empress of Ireland, the faces we had seen in those haunting images at the museum came flooding back.   We were happy to enter the breakwater at Matane as the wind had turned very cold.  It was a very small marina with a long and narrow breakwater jetty leading into the bay.  As we got tied up, it began to rain.  The next morning we departed early as the weather report was good.  The view from the marina concurred, the water was calm.  As we untied and headed out of the breakwater, fog began to form and by the time we reached the end, entering into the river, visibility was down to ¼ mile.  Not a problem with a good radar system! 

The Marina in Matane

A Foggy Departure

Soon the fog cleared and we began to see indications of rain ahead and suddenly we were in a thunder storm.  The radar was painting the cells and all was fine until the screen went blank!  We had lost our radar!  Fortunately the storm soon passed and it was an uneventful ride into Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. 

Sainte-Anne-des-Monts

 

The question remained, “how would we find someone to fix it”?  We had made previous arrangements to have fuel delivered.  Yes, these small marinas often don’t have fuel pumps and when boats need more fuel than can be brought in five gallon “jerry cans” one must arrange for a truck. When the truck arrived and backed into place we positioned the boat alongside the adjacent wall, the hose was lowered and gasoline was literally poured into the tanks.  Having completed that task we got the boat back to the slip and tied up.

In Position to Receive Gas

The Truck is Ready to Dispense Gas

It was then that Harry began making phone calls trying to solve the problem with our malfunctioning radar.  We found a fabulous seafood restaurant adjacent to the marina, the one bright spot as we seemed to be getting nowhere with the radar situation.  In the morning things began to look brighter as some of the phone calls of last evening were beginning to bear fruit, we discovered that there was a Raymarine dealership in Matane (yes, the town we left the day the radar quit!).  They agreed to send a technician right over!  By the end of the day the radar was repaired, under warranty, and we were ready to be on our way again, rather surprising given the circumstances.  The next issue was that we needed to pump out our holding tank.  Again, these small marinas do not have these facilities; most of the boats apparently go out for the day and can make other arrangements.  Rimouski had a pump out but it was inoperable.  Our book listed the next marina with a pump out ahead, so we made that our next stop.  We departed Sainte-Anne-des-Monts truly happy to be on our way again on a gorgeous day, the water was calm and the skies were clear although a bit hazy.  The scenery was spectacular with the Appalachians visible onshore. 

Beautiful Scenery

Lighthouse Le Martre

Valley Marsoui

Para-sailing from Mont St. Pierre

We watched the para-sails glide down the slope of Mont St. Pierre, landing on the beach below. Very soon we reached our turn point into Riviere-au-Madeleine.  As we followed the range markers into the marina it was clear this was a very small marina.  A few men came out and gestured where we should tie up, fortunately one spoke English and was able to translate for us.  The answer was, no, they did not have a pump out. We will look for one ahead, we aren't dire yet.

Cathedral at Rivier-la-Madeleine

Lighthouse Cap Madeleine

The Tiny Marina at Riviere-la-Madeleine

The day was so beautiful we felt it was important to travel as far as we could so we thanked them, untied, and waved good-by to this quaint and tiny village along the north coast of the Gaspe Peninsula.   We passed the light at Point-a-la-Renommee, having the first maritime radio station in North America it was established by Marconi in 1904. 

Lighthouse Pointe-a-la-Renommee

Soon we reached the breakwater at Riviere-au-Renard.  This very active fishing village had a small marina; we were tied up by 6:00PM.  We had traveled 104 miles.  Unfortunately, the seafood market was closed; it came highly recommended by the man in the boat behind us, our “French Connection” as he called himself. 

The Village of Riviere-au-Renard

The Fishing Fleet in the Setting Sun

This is the Whole Marina

The next morning we departed early as rain was forecast for the afternoon.  The sun shone brightly as we passed the Cap de Rosiers, the tallest lighthouse in Canada at 34 meters, built in 1858. 

Lighthouse Cap-de-Rosiers

The striking Forillon Peninsula loomed ahead, with its reddish cliffs plunging straight into the sea it was a dramatic sight.  As if on cue, a whale surfaced nearby!  

 

Beautiful Sheer Cliffs

The Forillon Peninsula, the Tip of the Gaspe Peninsula

Looking Behind Us

 Passing around the flower pot rocks at the end of the peninsula we could see the light, Cap-de-Gaspe standing sentry above the cliffs. 

The Tip of the Peninsula

Cap-de-Gaspe

 

The Flowerpot Rocks

The name Gaspe is derived from the Micmac Indian word, gespeg, meaning “lands’ end”.  It clearly is a fitting name.  We headed into the Baie de Gaspe and are currently at Gaspe Town at the head of the bay.

Club Nautique Jacques Cartier, the Marina at Gaspe Town

Gaspe Town