Gaspe Town, the Gaspe Peninsula and onward to New Brunswick

The town of Gaspe is set at the head of the Bay of Gaspe where three rivers terminate in a beautiful mountain setting.  It is a larger town than any we have seen for a while.  Our first order of business upon arrival was fuel and to pump out our holding tank.  Alas, their pump out equipment was inoperable.  Things were starting to get serious.  

Gaspe Town 

The Birthplace of Canada

Replica of the Cross Erected by Jacques Cartier

Main Street

In what is now Gaspe Town, Jacques Cartier erected a cross bearing the Coat of Arms of Francois I, King of France, along the shore of Gaspe Harbor on July 24, 1534.  This established the basis for French claims to this part of North America.  Thus Gaspe Town lays claim as the “birthplace of Canada”.  It has a quaint downtown and we enjoyed our visit to Gaspe immensely. 

The Baie de Gaspe

A Rainbow After Yet Another Thunder Storm

The southern side of Gaspe Bay was equally as beautiful as the more famous northern shore.  After the recent rains, waterfalls flowed over the cliffs into the sea.  

South Side of the Gaspe Bay

One of the Many Waterfalls

One of Canada’s most famous natural wonders is located offshore of the Gaspe Peninsula, Perce’ Rock came into view as we departed the bay and headed south.  Alas, the fog was moving in!  The closer we got, the thicker the fog.  We were able to maneuver the boat closely enough to see this magnificent monolith.  Even shrouded in fog it was an impressive sight!  

Perce' Rock

Nearby is Ile Bonaventure, an island with steep cliffs, deeply indented with numerous ledges and fissures, ideal breeding habitat for the Northern Gannet and home to a Gannet colony of 50,000 birds.  We have watched these golden headed birds swoop into the water and fly past in large "V" formations, they are beautiful to watch.  Unfortunately, lying just enough further off shore than Perce’ Rock the fog was more dense.  We could see it on the radar and crept as close as we felt comfortable but were unable to even make out the outline of the island. 

Somewhere Out There is Ile Bonaventure

We headed on our way.  The sky brightened as we headed southwest along the southern shore of the Gaspe Peninsula.  

Cap-de-Espoir

 

Our destination, Chandler, was chosen solely because they had pump out capability, we had called ahead to ensure it was in working order.  As we approached Chandler the skies darkened and just as we reached the breakwater, the skies opened up with loud claps of thunder and a thick wall of water.  Entering an unknown harbor in those conditions is not wise so we went into a “holding pattern” in deep water outside of the breakwater.  When the storm subsided, we entered the marina and tied up at the service dock. Annie, the gregarious dock master came to help.  After two hours of trying every possible solution it was clear, her pump out didn’t work either!  We moved to a slip for the evening and planned our next destination.

The Small Marina at Chandler

Night Heron

 

Hazards are Easier to Spot in the Morning Light

Rocks Lurked Near the Surface

The provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick are separated by the Bay of Chaleur.  We awoke early and headed out to cross this bay while the winds were light, it was a beautiful day and the water was glassy.  Approaching the center of the Bay the winds increased and the waters became a bit choppy.   

Choppy Waters on the Bay of Chaleur

We soon arrived at Bas Caraquet, an Acadian fishing village on the shore of New Brunswick.  This small marina didn’t have a pump out but had a pump truck on call, it would be there in the morning! 

A Very Narrow Entrance Channel

The Marina at Bas Caraquet

That business completed and with some relief we departed Bas Caraquet and headed through the narrow Shippagan Channel toward the Northumberland Straight.  As we approached the lift bridge in Shippagan we could see many cars stopped on the bridge.  We called the bridge operator and were informed that there had been an accident, he was unable to open the bridge for at least an hour.   

Entrance to Shippagan

We detoured into the marina at Shippagan, another Acadian town. The Acadians have an interesting history, being of French heritage, the Acadians settled in the Maritime Provinces of Canada. After the British Conquest of Acadia, during the French and Indian Wars, the British expelled the Acadians, many of whom perished from disease and drowning as they were forced to return to France.  Some fled to Louisiana, the basis of the Cajun population today.  They are very proud of their heritage and one sees the Acadian flag and Acadian colors displayed almost anywhere you might look. 

The Acadian Flag

Acadian Colors

Lighthouse Decorated in Acadian Colors

St.John's United Church, built in 1903

The weather changed with rain and strong winds in the forecast.  We remain in Shippagan awaiting more favorable conditions.