The Canso Causeway and Bras d’ Or Lakes

Entering the Canso Canal

The Canso Canal separates the mainland of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island.  Prior to building the canal, the tidal current ran through this strait at six to seven knots.  This project not only eliminated the current but created one of the deepest ports on the east coast of North America.  Ten million tons of rocks were required to complete this project.  The rock was quarried from nearby Porcupine Mountain, the scars remain conspicuous today. 

Porcupine Mountain

The canal and lock were completed in 1955.  As we entered the canal, a Schnauzer was there to greet Miss Hali.  The lock chamber is 820’ long and 80’ wide, roughly the same size as those on the St. Lawrence Seaway.  The lift is approximately four feet. 

Entering the Lock

A Friend for Hali

Closing the Gates Behind Us

The Gates Open Ahead and the Bridge Swings to Allow Us to Exit

 

 Departing the Canso Canal we turned into the pretty Lennox Passage,  a very scenic waterway leading to St. Peters Bay.

Burnt Island Bridge, Halfway Point of Lennox Passage

 

Beautiful Lennox Passage

A Typical Cape Breton Lighthouse

St. Peters Bay leads to the St. Peters Canal, gateway to Bras d’ Or Lake.  This canal and lock system opened in 1869, prior to that time, small craft were pulled over the narrow strip of land by a team of oxen.  St. Peters is one of the few “tidal locks” in North America.  A tidal lock differs from a conventional lock in that it has four gates at each end.  All four gates are angled so that when closed they form a diamond-shape.  The angle must face into the side with the higher water.  It was interesting to see this “tidal lock” system work.  The high tide was behind us so it was there that the four gates were closed.  The downstream gates (ahead of us) required only two of its gates to close.

Entering the Lock

Three Boats in the Lock

The First Set of Gates Close Behind Us

The Second Set of Gates Close Behind Us

The Four Gates Form a Diamond Shape When Closed

Once through the lock and canal we entered the lake and turned into  St. Peters Marina for the night. 

St. Peters Canal

St. Peters Marina

We wound our way into the main lake to explore  its many arms and anchorages.  Once the boats were anchored, we explored further by dinghy.  We tried Darlene’s paddle board and even took a spin on Bruce’s Sea-Doo.    

Beautiful Scenery

                           

Lights Mark the Shoals

Papa Bear, Mama Bear and Baby Bear

Darlene on her Paddle Board

Peter and Lyn

Rafted Together

 

Harry Was a Natural

Leslie Held Her Own

Stormy Skies

The winds picked up again so we have returned to St. Peters Marina to await a good weather window for our crossing to the Nova Scotia mainland.

The Northumberland Strait

On the 12^th of August the wind abated and we got underway at 6 AM.   

Early Morning Departure From Shippagan

Fishing Boats Waiting For Their Season

We had enjoyed Shippagan very much but were happy to again be on our way having many destinations ahead which remained to be explored.  Requesting a bridge opening as we departed the marina, the Shippagan Bridge was open and ready when we approached allowing us access to Shippagan Gully, a meandering channel leading to open water and the Northumberland Strait.

Shippagan Causeway Bridge

The Northumberland Strait is the body of water that lies between New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.  It is said to have the warmest saltwater north of Virginia.   In order to make up some of the time lost by the unsettled weather, we chose Shediac, New Brunswick as our next destination.  It would be a 114 mile day. The day was beautiful with calm water which was fortunate because of the numerous lobster traps.  With each trap marked with at least two colorful floating buoys one would think they would be easily spotted but, depending on the water conditions and angle of the sun, seeing them can be very difficult indeed.  We had successfully dodged countless lobster traps when we heard it, the unmistakable sound of the line from one of these traps wrapping around our propeller shaft!  We quickly stopped the boat and backed up hoping to unwrap any line which might have tangled.  Harry cut away the line on the surface and after a few maneuvers to test our success in this endeavor we continued on.  It seemed no harm had been done. 

Shediac Marina, New Brunswick

As soon as we were tied up in the Shediac Marina, Harry donned his wetsuit to check for any remaining line.  He found that there was indeed more line which he was able to unwind without too much difficulty.  No damage appeared to have been done.

Ready to Dive

"Look What I Found"

The trip across the strait was very pleasant and there were fewer lobster traps to dodge.  Soon we could see the deep red island ahead and knew we were approaching Prince Edward Island, the smallest of Canada’s Provinces.  We rounded the Indian Spit Lighthouse and approached Summerside, a lovely seaside community.   

The Red Soil of Prince Edward Island Ahead

Indian Spit Light

Approaching Silver Fox Marina

We tied up at Silver Fox Marina and prepared to explore the many bike trails available on the island.

Beach at Low Tide

The End of the Trail

One of the Bike Trails

Scenery at Prince Edward Island

When it was time for some refreshment, Samuels Coffee House served beautifully crafted specialty coffees.   

There were several other boats in the marina doing the same trip that we are.  It was fun to compare notes of the trip.  Two of these couples were very friendly and we joined them for dinner or cocktails on several occasions. When the forecast was good for our departure we traveled together. 

Soon after departing from Summerside, we passed under the Confederation Bridge.  This bridge opened May 31, 1997 and carries the Trans-Canada Highway across the Abegweit Passage of the Northumberland Straight, linking Prince Edward Island with mainland New Brunswick.  It is the longest bridge over ice covered waters in the world.  

The Eight Mile Long Confederation Bridge

We found a peaceful anchorage in Amet Sound, Nova Scotia.  

 

Kiwi II at Anchor in Amet Sound

An Early Morning Departure

We departed early taking advantage of the calm waters.  The day was beautiful, it was a nice trip around Cape John and across St. Georges Bay to Havre Boucher where we found another lovely anchorage.

Cape John

Cape George Light

We arrived early enough in the day to unload the dinghy and take Hali for a romp on the beach.  It was a beautiful evening.

Hali Enjoying the Water

The Anchorage at Havre Boucher

Ominous Skies

Gaspe Town, the Gaspe Peninsula and onward to New Brunswick

The town of Gaspe is set at the head of the Bay of Gaspe where three rivers terminate in a beautiful mountain setting.  It is a larger town than any we have seen for a while.  Our first order of business upon arrival was fuel and to pump out our holding tank.  Alas, their pump out equipment was inoperable.  Things were starting to get serious.  

Gaspe Town 

The Birthplace of Canada

Replica of the Cross Erected by Jacques Cartier

Main Street

In what is now Gaspe Town, Jacques Cartier erected a cross bearing the Coat of Arms of Francois I, King of France, along the shore of Gaspe Harbor on July 24, 1534.  This established the basis for French claims to this part of North America.  Thus Gaspe Town lays claim as the “birthplace of Canada”.  It has a quaint downtown and we enjoyed our visit to Gaspe immensely. 

The Baie de Gaspe

A Rainbow After Yet Another Thunder Storm

The southern side of Gaspe Bay was equally as beautiful as the more famous northern shore.  After the recent rains, waterfalls flowed over the cliffs into the sea.  

South Side of the Gaspe Bay

One of the Many Waterfalls

One of Canada’s most famous natural wonders is located offshore of the Gaspe Peninsula, Perce’ Rock came into view as we departed the bay and headed south.  Alas, the fog was moving in!  The closer we got, the thicker the fog.  We were able to maneuver the boat closely enough to see this magnificent monolith.  Even shrouded in fog it was an impressive sight!  

Perce' Rock

Nearby is Ile Bonaventure, an island with steep cliffs, deeply indented with numerous ledges and fissures, ideal breeding habitat for the Northern Gannet and home to a Gannet colony of 50,000 birds.  We have watched these golden headed birds swoop into the water and fly past in large "V" formations, they are beautiful to watch.  Unfortunately, lying just enough further off shore than Perce’ Rock the fog was more dense.  We could see it on the radar and crept as close as we felt comfortable but were unable to even make out the outline of the island. 

Somewhere Out There is Ile Bonaventure

We headed on our way.  The sky brightened as we headed southwest along the southern shore of the Gaspe Peninsula.  

Cap-de-Espoir

 

Our destination, Chandler, was chosen solely because they had pump out capability, we had called ahead to ensure it was in working order.  As we approached Chandler the skies darkened and just as we reached the breakwater, the skies opened up with loud claps of thunder and a thick wall of water.  Entering an unknown harbor in those conditions is not wise so we went into a “holding pattern” in deep water outside of the breakwater.  When the storm subsided, we entered the marina and tied up at the service dock. Annie, the gregarious dock master came to help.  After two hours of trying every possible solution it was clear, her pump out didn’t work either!  We moved to a slip for the evening and planned our next destination.

The Small Marina at Chandler

Night Heron

 

Hazards are Easier to Spot in the Morning Light

Rocks Lurked Near the Surface

The provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick are separated by the Bay of Chaleur.  We awoke early and headed out to cross this bay while the winds were light, it was a beautiful day and the water was glassy.  Approaching the center of the Bay the winds increased and the waters became a bit choppy.   

Choppy Waters on the Bay of Chaleur

We soon arrived at Bas Caraquet, an Acadian fishing village on the shore of New Brunswick.  This small marina didn’t have a pump out but had a pump truck on call, it would be there in the morning! 

A Very Narrow Entrance Channel

The Marina at Bas Caraquet

That business completed and with some relief we departed Bas Caraquet and headed through the narrow Shippagan Channel toward the Northumberland Straight.  As we approached the lift bridge in Shippagan we could see many cars stopped on the bridge.  We called the bridge operator and were informed that there had been an accident, he was unable to open the bridge for at least an hour.   

Entrance to Shippagan

We detoured into the marina at Shippagan, another Acadian town. The Acadians have an interesting history, being of French heritage, the Acadians settled in the Maritime Provinces of Canada. After the British Conquest of Acadia, during the French and Indian Wars, the British expelled the Acadians, many of whom perished from disease and drowning as they were forced to return to France.  Some fled to Louisiana, the basis of the Cajun population today.  They are very proud of their heritage and one sees the Acadian flag and Acadian colors displayed almost anywhere you might look. 

The Acadian Flag

Acadian Colors

Lighthouse Decorated in Acadian Colors

St.John's United Church, built in 1903

The weather changed with rain and strong winds in the forecast.  We remain in Shippagan awaiting more favorable conditions.