Fall in New England, Part 1

Plum Island Light

On September 12^th we departed York Harbor Maine heading toward Massachusetts.  We had noted a chill in the air and could tell that fall was on the way.  We departed in the sunshine but soon were in the fog again.  It was a bit eerie to pass the Isle of Shoals in such thick fog but the whole coast is like that, rocky islets all along the shore.  We have confidence in our navigation and our radar and the trip was a smooth one.  The Blynman Canal cuts through on the Annisquam River saving the long off shore run around Cape Ann. We arrived at low tide through this already shallow passage, it made for an interesting but beautiful trip. 

Entering Blynman Canal at Low Tide

Boats Moored at the Edge of the Channel

A House Boat High and Dry at Low Tide

The channel was so narrow in some places that very tight turns were required to wind around the channel markers to stay in the deeper water.   

Keeping Green to Port and Red to Starboard Required a Sharp S Turn

We followed Kiwi through and found there is indeed a benefit to traveling behind a boat who draws more water, when he found the bottom we were able to avoid doing so ourselves.  

Annisquam River Bridge

B & M Railroad Bridge

Narrow Bascule Bridge

At the southern entrance to the canal there was a very narrow bridge with only 8 feet of vertical clearance, the water ran swiftly through this narrow channel.  Fortunately, the bridge operator was very responsive.  Holding position with strong current and tight quarters can be quite challenging!  We exited the Canal in Gloucester, spotting the memorial to fishermen who have lost their lives to the sea.

Memorial to Fishermen Lost at Sea

Soon we arrived in Salem, our first stop in Massachusetts.  We picked up a mooring in the harbor and took the water taxi to shore to explore this historic town.  During the “Golden Age of Sail” Salem was considered America’s trading capital and one of the crossroads of the world.  Sea Captains would depart Salem with holds full of cod, rum, molasses and other products and sail the dangerous waters around Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope to exchange their goods for exotic spices and luxury products, earning themselves vast fortunes.   By 1800 Salem was the sixth largest city in America and the richest per capita.  This period is long gone but the beautiful homes and government houses remain. 

Looking Out at the Mooring Field

House of Seven Gables, Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne

U. S. Customs House

Of course the history of the Salem Witch Trials is also prominent in the city today with memorials and exhibits, testaments to that sad time in Salem history. 

Each Bench Carried an Inscription

The Salem Witch Trials Memorial, A Series of Benches Line the Walls

One of the Inscriptions

Departing Salem after a rain squall we moved in and out of the fog on our way to Boston, this magnificent city appeared slowly from the fog as we neared the waterfront.  

Fort Independence

Boston

 

Tying up at Boston Waterboat Marina, we found we couldn’t have selected a better location from which to explore this great city.  Located on Long Wharf across the street from Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall we were in the heart of the historic district.  Christopher Columbus Park was located at the head of the marina, a great place for Hali to run and play!   

The Famous Golden Cricket Weathervane Atop Faneuil Hall

The Old State House and Site of the Boston Massacre

Boston's 'Big Ben'

We visited the old State House where Samuel Adams and other representatives clashed with the Royal Governor who’s Council Chambers were also located in the building.  On the town square directly in front of this beautiful building is the location of the Boston Massacre which in 1770 galvanized public opinion against British Authority.  Walking across town we found the Bell in Hand Tavern, the oldest in the country and visited the Old North Church.  With the tallest steeple in Boston it was used to signal the approach of the British ahead of the Battle of Lexington and Concord. 

Old North Church

Home of Paul Revere

Boston By Night

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Boston, a beautiful and vibrant city. We delayed our departure to allow the winds to subside.  As we slipped off the lines the winds lay down exactly as forecast.   On our departure we had a clear view of this magnificent city. 

Departing Boston

Boston Light

Heading south past Plymouth Harbor it was fun to speculate on what the Pilgrims must have thought as they approached this new world so many years ago.  With all of the peninsulas and islands outside of Plymouth Harbor it is a wonder that they chose this sight at all.  Soon we arrived at the Cape Cod Canal, a 14 mile channel cut across the neck of Cape Cod.  Stretching between Cape Cod Bay and Buzzards Bay it saves the 135 mile trip through Nantucket Shoals and around Cape Cod.  When the Canal opened in 1914 it was 15 feet deep and 100 feet wide and accidents were frequent.  The modern canal is the world’s widest sea-level canal, it has a controlling depth of 32 feet and its minimum width is 450 feet.  Trails can be seen on both sides of the canal providing recreational use for bicycles, skaters and hikers.  

Cape Cod Canal

A Barge Passing Under the Sagamore Bridge

Railroad Bridge Crossing the Canal

At the south end of the canal in Buzzards Bay we found a lovely anchorage and stopped for the night. 

 

Sunset at Onsett Cove, Buzzards Bay

A Beautiful and Peaceful Anchorage

In the morning we headed out through the Elizabeth Islands, crossing through them at Woods Hole.  The current was running strong against us which made for an interesting trip. 

Confused Water Through Woods Hole

The Current Was Running Strong

Arriving at Martha’s Vineyard we stopped at a marina in Edgartown to explore this beautiful island.   

Edgartown Light

Chappaquiddick Beach

We took a tour to Oak Bluffs to see the gingerbread houses.  Along the way we saw the beach and bridge where Jaws was filmed, frightening many beachgoers so long ago.  Walking around the quaint village of Edgartown was great fun.  With so many beautiful restored homes and historic buildings, there was much to see and do.  

An Edgartown Street

St. Elizabeth's

The Old Whaling Church

The Ferry to Chappaquiddick