Monday, September 16, 2013

Downeast!





We have certainly taken the long way around to get “Downeast” but it has been a fantastic trip! For us it is all about the journey! 
Departing Southwest Harbor on Mt. Desert Island, Maine, we wound our way around small islands and rocky ledges, much of it in the fog. 
 
              Some of the Small Islets Off of the Coast of Maine


As we reached Curtis Island at the mouth of Camden Harbor, the fog began to lift yielding a beautiful sight!  This quaint town seems made for boaters with marinas and moorings available and a plethora of shops and wonderful restaurants ashore. 
Curtis Island Light

Some of the Shops and Restaurants of Camden

Camden

Camden Harbor
We found a lovely little park at the head of the harbor complete with a waterfall and some very unusual ducks. Completely white, these ducks appeared to be wearing a toupee!
Pretty Park Near the Marina


Odd Looking Ducks

Hali Went For a Long Walk on a Short Pier!
Departing in the morning the sun shone brightly as we wove our way back past Curtis Island and more rocky ledges and islets on our way to Portland.   

Departing Camden Harbor


Fisherman Island Light
The busy commercial port of Portland was bustling as we passed a lovely schooner under full sail. 

Schooner in the Harbor
Passing the Spring Point Light, Fort Gorges came into view standing guard in the harbor, reminiscent of a bygone era.   
Spring Point Light

Fort Gorges
Soon we were tied up at DiMillo’s Marina ready to explore this vibrant city.  Portland is a city left unchanged in many ways.  It is still a work in progress but has a large number of tastefully restored historic buildings and boutique shops.  A cruise ship was in town adding to the bustle of downtown. 
DiMillo's Marina
DiMillo's Floating Restaurant, the Busiest Restaurant in Maine
DiMillo's As Seen From the Water
As we departed Portland Harbor, the light on Portland Head was clearly visible but nearby, the Ram Island Light was becoming enshrouded in fog, a sign of things to come.   
Portland Harbor Light
 
Ram Island Light
Navigating in fog has become the norm along this coast.   As we turned into York Harbor, our final destination in Maine, the fog lifted allowing us to fully appreciate the beauty.  There were some  magnificent homes overlooking the ocean.  All three boats rafted together, that is one boat, Miss Darlin’, tied to the dock, Kiwi tied to Miss Darlin’ and we tied to Kiwi. 
Preparing to Raft Up
This allows for more efficient use of the dock space.  Most marinas do not allow this practice but in small harbors this is one way to accommodate so many boats. 
Beautiful York Harbor

York Harbor Mooring Field
Mr. Donnell, the marina owner, drove us to the grocery, pointing out some of the most notable historic buildings along the way.  York Harbor is a lovely town with many beautiful and carefully restored historic homes and buildings.  Dinner at the York Harbor Inn was a fitting ending to the evening as well as to our time in Maine.  We look forward to exploring Massachusetts next.

  

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Back in the USA!



We had been in Yarmouth for two days with wind, fog and rain.  When we awoke on the 4th of September the fog had lifted.  We viewed this as a sign.   We had prepared our navigation route in order to be ready when the conditions were right.  Checking the weather forecast again we believed that our weather window had opened.  At 7:40 on September 4th we slipped off the lines and departed Yarmouth, Nova Scotia heading for the coast of Maine.
Departing Yarmouth Harbor

Heading into Open Water
The conditions were very good when we got out into open water, one to two foot swells.  As we got further off shore the swells got a bit bigger but there were no white caps.  Several hours into the trip we entered yet another fog bank. After some time in the fog, we could see on our chart plotter that we were approaching the border of the United States.  When we crossed the border, as if on cue, the fog lifted and the sun shone brightly, a whale surfaced ahead slapping the water with his fluke!   
The Fog Ended Abruptly as we Crossed Back Into the United States!
We had a beautiful trip the rest of the way into Southwest Harbor on Mt. Desert Island, Maine.  It was 121 miles across and took us just over nine hours.  We had loved our time in Canada; we had seen many places and met many wonderful people so it was bittersweet when we realized that this part of our trip was behind us.  Despite this, we were happy to be back in the United States, ready to explore the New England coast. 
Land Ahead!

Appraoching Mount Desert Island

Sailboat in the Harbor
Southwest Harbor is a quaint village on Mount Desert Island with a specialty grocery, a wonderful bakery and excellent restaurants.
The Village of Southwest Harbor

B & B

Southwest Harbor
Maine means lobster and we found that a lobster fisherman bases his operation from the dock on which we were tied!  We bought lobsters from him and one of the dock hands agreed to assist us in cooking them.  The lobsters were placed into a blue box which floated in the water keeping them alive until we were able to cook them.  In the morning the pot was readied and in they went!   A fantastic feast awaited!
Our Lobsters Are in There         


6 of These are Ours

Ready to Go

Boiling Water in the Pot

Looks Like a Feast!
The plan was to rent a car to explore the island but because there was a cruise ship in port in Bar Harbor we were unable to secure a rental car.  L.L. Bean operates a shuttle around Mt. Desert Island, this was our back up plan.  Despite the off season schedule we were able to get to Bar Harbor for a wonderful afternoon.  We enjoyed a delicious lunch on a veranda which overlooked the Village Green. 
 
Bar Harbor Inn

The Village Green as Seen From Cherry Stones Restaurant


Horse Drawn Carriage in Bar Harbor

The Harbor at Bar Harbor

We look forward to continuing our exploration of the coast of Maine.