Going to Carolina...

Norfolk, Virginia is the location of mile zero of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway; distances are measured north and south from this point.  Waterside Marina is located very near the red buoy designating this spot and is the start of the last segment of our trip back to St. James, NC and then home. Once past the commercial areas of Norfolk with its many bridges and abundant commercial ship traffic, this segment of the waterway is more sheltered than much of the wide open waterways we have been traveling; it is replete with man-made cuts and canals connecting natural rivers and sounds.  For example, the Elizabeth River and North Landing River are connected by the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal.  Midway through this canal is the Great Bridge Lock, the last lock of this trip.  It works in conjunction with the bascule bridge; both are located at Great Bridge.

 

Great Bridge Lock

Intracoastal Mileage Measured From the Great Bridge Lock

Great Bridge

South of Great Bridge the waterway became more wild and remote with beautiful wetlands and the familiar scenery of Loblolly Pines and Bald Cypress.  It was here that it began to truly feel that we were nearing home. 

The North Carolina Cut

Bald Eagle Along the Shore

Our first stop in North Carolina was in Coinjock, literally a wide spot on the North Carolina Cut.  

Coinjock, NC

Fall is a time when many boaters depart northern waters heading to the warmer climate of Florida and the Bahamas for the winter.  Called the southern migration, it was in full swing and we were in the middle of it.  As we departed Coinjock, the docks were emptying of other boats heading south.   

The Southern Migration

Boats Waiting for the Opening of the Alligator River Bridge.  Our Low Profile Allowed Us to Go On Through.

We found we would see the same boats each day as we passed one by one, our cruising speed being a little faster than theirs, their days a little longer than ours, we often ended up in the same marinas at the end of the day.    

The Pungo River

Sunrise at Dowry Creek Marina

We were blessed with beautiful weather and calm winds during this leg of the trip.  This was very welcome as we crossed the wide and shallow Pamlico and Neuse Rivers and the Albemarle Sound all of which can kick up a nasty chop in unsettled weather.  

Crossing the Neuse River

Adams Creek

We spent an extra day in Beaufort enjoying this quaint seaside town which permeates history.  

Beaufort

Legends of Blackbeard abound here and the maritime museum has an interesting exhibit of artifacts recovered from Blackbeard’s flagship, Queen Anne’s Revenge.  Leslie’s birthday was celebrated at the Beaufort Grocery, a wonderful restaurant in the heart of downtown.  On the last day of our adventure we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the Causeway Café in Wrightsville Beach before heading out on Motts Channel back to the Intracoastal Waterway. 
 

Motts Channel

One Must Watch For the Shifting Sandbars on the ICW

We soon turned into Snow’s Cut.  This man made cut connects the ICW at Carolina Beach with the Cape Fear River. 

Snow's Cut

We enjoyed the familiar scenery along the Cape Fear River to Southport where we again joined the ICW.  At mile 315 of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (315 miles from Norfolk), we turned into the channel leading to St. James Marina completing this fabulous adventure.   

Sign Indicating Statute Mile 315 of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway

Entrance Channel to St. James Marina

Returning back to St. James on November 2nd after six months and 4580 miles, we reflected back on the fabulous adventure that is “The Down East Circle Loop”.  

Sunset at St. James Marina

In the words of Mark Twain, 'Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do.  So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.  Explore. Dream. Discover'
            

Cape May and the Chesapeake Bay

The winds arose again and we spent an extra day in Cape May.  Our patience was rewarded with a perfect morning to depart through the three and one half mile Cape May Canal which leads to the Delaware Bay and the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. 

 

A Beautiful Morning Departure

 

Entering the Cape May Canal

Perfect Conditions on Delaware Bay

Delaware Bay is wide and can become quite nasty in unsettled weather.  We felt fortunate to have such good weather for this transit.  Our original destination was Chesapeake City on the C & D Canal. 

The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal

The conditions were so good and we arrived so early in the day that we continued on to the Sassafras River which is on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay.  We were very glad that we did!  We had passed it on several occasions, this time we chose to explore this scenic river. 

The Sassafras River

Georgetown Yacht Basin with the Kitty Knight House Visible on the Hill

Our new destination of Georgetown took us several miles upstream, what a treat it was! Fall on the Chesapeake is gorgeous with the leaves turning to shades of red and yellow and the sky a bright clear blue; we thoroughly enjoyed the trip to the Georgetown Yacht Basin.  Brunch at the Kitty Knight House was yet another treat of this diversion up the Sassafras River.

Departing Through the Mooring Field

Fall on the Sassafras

Departing Georgetown we headed to Oxford to visit our friends, John and Janice Elerding.  The day was beautiful with a light chop on the water as we headed down the Bay.  

We Passed Under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge

Arriving in Beautiful Oxford, MD

Reaching Oxford we called John and Janice and had a great visit with them including a wonderful dinner in St. Michaels, another of our favorite spots on this part of the Bay.  We have had many weather delays so with October coming to an end we determined that if the weather is good, it must be a travel day.  With some regret and a good forecast we departed Oxford, our visit a little shorter than we would have liked.  Our next destination was St. Mary’s Cove, another favorite spot.  The winds on the Bay picked up as we crossed, completely unpredicted by any of our many weather indicators.  Wind on the Chesapeake can create a nasty chop because of the shallow depths.  We were soon encountering three foot breaking waves made more uncomfortable by the short distance between each crest.  With this change in weather, we changed our destination to a marina in Solomons Island.  By the time we arrived, the waves had subsided and the trip was quite pleasant up the Patuxent River to the harbor that is Solomons.  

Spring Cove Marina in Solomons Island, MD

We hated to miss the peaceful anchorage at St. Mary’s Cove but we enjoy Solomons and with uncertain weather it was a better choice.  Our next stop was Regatta Point in Deltaville, simply a convenient stop between Solomons and Norfolk.  The Bay had quieted and the forecast was good, this time the forecast proved more accurate.

Sunset in Deltaville, VA

Departing Deltaville, the fan belt began to squeal and Harry went down into the engine room to investigate.  Discovering the water pump was leaking, we returned to the Marina.  A few phone calls and a new water pump was on order, expected to arrive the next day. With the new pump installed we departed Deltaville once again.  The forecast called for two foot waves which on the shallow waters of the Bay can be choppy.  As we neared the southern end of Chesapeake Bay where the Atlantic Ocean, the James River and Hampton Roads meet the Chesapeake Bay, the confluence of these bodies of water made for much confusion on the water itself leading to waves as high as five feet on occasion.  

The Bay Was Getting Rough

Wind Driven Waves

Hali Took It All In Stride

We had a good salt water bath by the time we had turned into Hampton Roads and proceeded past the many military and commercial shipbuilding installations surrounding one of the world’s greatest natural harbors. The radio teemed with distress calls and “security” calls warning of commercial or military ships' movements.  It is always an interesting trip through this busy harbor.  Arriving at Waterside Marina in Norfolk we were happy to return to this vibrant waterfront. 

Waterside Marina, Norfolk, VA

A Circle Completed

On October 3^rd we arrived back in New York City, thus completing the “Down East Circle” portion of our trip.  What a fabulous trip it has been!  We had departed New York City on June 6^th, heading north on the Hudson River.  On the 6^th of July we entered Canada by way of the Richelieu River, traveling to Montreal and then heading east toward Quebec City and out to the Bay of St. Lawrence.  We then headed along the eastern coast of Canada, reaching Prince Edward Island and the Bras d’ Or Lakes before heading west again along the coast of Nova Scotia and reentering the United States on the 4^th of September in Southwest Harbor, Maine.  We traveled roughly 3000 miles, went through 35 locks, saw whales, seals, unusual birds and marveled at the sheer natural beauty.  We visited large cities and picturesque tiny villages and met many wonderful people along the way.  The pictures that follow are but a glimpse into the adventure known as the Down East Circle Route.

 

The Big Apple

George Washington Bridge

Bear Mountain

Sunset on the Hudson River

The Flight Locks at Waterford

The Champlain Canal

Anchored on Lake Champlain

The Historic Chambly Canal

Montreal

Traffic on the St. Lawrence River

Quebec City

Taddoussac

The Saguenay Fjord

The Gaspe Peninsula

Perce Rock

Crossing the Baie de Chaleur

Checking for Line from the Lobster Trap We Hit

Departures at Sunrise

Beautiful Anchorages

Enjoying Time With Friends

Halifax

Lunenburg

Shelburne

The Fog Cleared as We Crossed the Border into the U.S.A.

Southwest Harbor, Maine

Lobsters!

Camden

Boston

The Cape Cod Canal

Edgartown Light, Martha's Vineyard

Fall in Stonington, CT

We returned to New York City by way of Long Island Sound, the East River and Hell Gate.

The Battery

Not all of the days were sunny!

 

Some Days This Was Our View

Fog Seemed to Form Instantly

And Then There Was This!

When you get right down to it, it is really all about the journey!

The Markers Lead to the Next Adventure!

Our journey is not over, however.  After 12 days in New York waiting for the replacement of our transmission cooler and then for the wind to lay down enough to calm the seas and allow us to transit the Coastal waters of New Jersey, we began the next leg of our journey, the trip back to North Carolina.  We departed on the 15^th of October to find that the weather forecast was very optimistic.  The ocean was still quite rough.  Anchoring in a picturesque cove inside Sandy Hook, we waited for better weather.   
 

Horseshoe Cove, Sandy Hook

The next morning, the seas were much calmer.  With four to six foot swells, the ride to Atlantic City was really quite nice.  

Atlantic City as we Entered Absecon Inlet

Golden Nugget Marina

We were able to complete the last of our open ocean legs when we entered the inlet at Cape May.  We celebrated with dinner at the Lobster House! 

Looking Back As We Enter Cape May Inlet