Onward to the Saguenay Fjord

Departing Quebec City was interesting.  Because of the strong current in this area, we had to time our departure carefully.  This meant that we would need to depart at 6AM, before the lock began to operate.  To accommodate this, the marina had a dock outside of the lock gates specifically for those who needed to depart early or who arrived too late to be locked through into the basin.  We had one last look at this beautiful city from the marina as we headed through the lock to the dock on the outside. 

View From the Marina

Departing the Basin to the Outside Dock

We departed at 6 o’clock on a beautiful morning spotting a hot air balloon floating above the river.  Soon we were passing Montmorency Falls, higher than Niagara Falls by more than 90 feet, a beautiful sight!  

Montmorency Falls in the Early Morning

We passed St-Anne-de-Beaupre on our way to Cap-a-l’Aigle, our destination for the day.

St- Anne-du-Beaupre

 

The Village of Cap-a-l'Aigle

The Marina at High Tide

The Waterfall in the Marina

It was a very pretty spot, another harbor surrounded by a high rock breakwater with its very own waterfall inside the marina!  We had another early departure from Cap-a-l’Aigle; several boats were traveling in the same direction so all needed to depart at about the same time. 

Early Morning Departure

Pointe de Rochers Light

We passed the Pointe des Rochers Light on our way to the Prince Shoal Light, the turn point for Tadoussac, our destination.  We began to see Beluga Whales as they surfaced, their white bodies stood out against the blue water. Curious Harbor Seals watched as we turned toward Tadoussac. 

Prince Shoal Light

Tadoussac

 

The Marina at Tadoussac

Entering the marina, we tied up.  Once the boat was secure we headed into the very pretty town to explore.  The confluence of the St. Lawrence River and the Saguenay Fjord is prime whale feeding ground and there is a wonderful Whale Interpretation Center in the village.  It was very well done, they even had booklets in English which explained in detail what we were seeing.  They screened their film in English just for us.  We have found the French Canadians to be very warm and friendly and they have made every effort to help us with our very limited French skills!  We explored the trail along the fjord and around the point back to the marina enjoying the fabulous views!  

Entrance to the Fjord

Looking Up the Saguenay Fjord

Sailor Enjoying the Gorgeous Day

Fog Can Form Very Fast Where the Warm Land Meets the Cold Water

The winds came up giving us an extra day to enjoy this lovely village and to catch up on some of our chores.  Once the winds subsided we departed to explore the Saguenay Fjord, said to be one of the largest fjords in the world and the only one in North America.  Eddies form at the confluence; we crossed them as we entered the fjord. 

Eddies at the Confluence of the Saguenay Fjord and St. Lawrence River

Passing the Tour Boat

Steep Cliffs

The water was deep all of the way to the steep sides where the granite cliffs plunged into the cold water of the fjord.  We discovered that our depth finder cannot take depth readings beyond 600 feet!  Much of the fjord was deeper than that! We stopped in a lovely village, Anse St. Jean, well known in the cruising community for Madame Louise’s Bakery, naturally we found it. 

The Marina at Anse-St.-Jean

 Some of the most spectacular scenery was found near Baie Eternite, the entrance of which was guarded by two mountains, Cap Eternite and Cap Trinite.  Cap Trinite has three distinct steps, the first is 122 meters high, perched on top is a statue of the Virgin Mary said to have been placed there by a sailor caught in a storm who was so frightened he prayed that if he was saved he would erect a statue on that spot.  He was true to his word; it was placed there in 1881.  The next step is another 90 meters high, topped by a cross (difficult to see). The third step stands 457 meters (nearly 1500 feet) above sea level.  It was a very beautiful spot.

Cap Eternite

Cap Trinite

Baie Eternite

We returned to Tadoussac from which to depart for the Gaspe Peninsula.

Quintessential Quebec City

Francois Laval Among the Spires

Quebec City is a gem, the only walled city in North America; Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage City, it retains its old world charm with the feel of a French city.  The centerpiece is the Chateau Frontenac, perched atop Cap Diamont (Mount Diamond) named by Jacques Cartier for the diamonds he believed could be found there. 

Chateau Frontenac Viewed From the River's Edge

He was the first European to reach Quebec in 1535 but it was Samuel de Champlain who founded a permanent settlement in 1608.  Our exploration began with a bike ride to the base of Cap Diamont where there is now a funicular to the top.

The Funicular

View From the Top

Exiting the funicular one was greeted by a large sculpture of Samuel de Champlain placed on the spot where he died in 1635.

Samuel de Champlain

Harry Enjoying a Frappachino

Across the plaza was a familiar sign, Starbucks, located on the ground level of the Chateau Frontenac.  Of course we stopped for some refreshment!  Soon we were ready to begin our exploration, walking the Dufferin Terrace, a wooden boardwalk with spectacular views of the St. Lawrence River.  The Governor’s Promenade was next with its 310 steps leading to the Plains of Abraham, site of the battle between the British and French in 1759.   It was this defeat which caused New France to become a British Colony in 1763. 

Viewed From the Bottom, Governor's Promenade Ends at the Flagpole

View From the Top

 

Plains of Abraham

 Near the Plains of Abraham the Citadel stands proudly guarding the city. 

A Mini "Changing of the Guard" at the Citadel

The Ball Tower, Originally Used to Tell Time

 In the lower town (Basse-Ville) where the original fur trading post was located is the Notre-Dame-Des-Victories Church, built in 1688 it is said to be the oldest stone church in North America and is named for the earlier French victories over the British in 1690 and 1711.  It stands in Place Royal amidst many 17^th and 18^th century buildings, former homes and businesses of early shopkeepers. 

Notre-Dame-des-Victories Church

Place Royale With its Bust of Louis the 14th, King of France

Archaeological Remains of Place Royale

Finding our way back up the hill, this time taking “breakneck stairs”, we headed toward the St. Louis Gate to the Parliament Building.

"Breakneck Stairs"

St. Louis Gate

Harry Conquered the Gate!

Quebec City is the capital of the province of Quebec, its facade bears twenty two bronze statues of men and women who were of importance in history.

The Parliament Building

Kilometer 0, the Heart of Quebec City, Located in Front of the Parliament Building

Some of the Bronze Statues Are Visible Here

Where the Legislators Meet

The British Representatives Oversee and Approve Legislation From This Room

We enjoyed our visit to Quebec City and look forward to returning in the future.  We had two “weather days”, remaining longer than planned but put the time to good use getting Hali groomed and planning our navigation as we continue north east on the St. Lawrence River.

Hali's New Do

We Discovered a Convenient Way to Get Hali to the Groomers When it Was Too Far For Her to Walk!

Exploring the Saint Lawrence River

The Saint Lawrence River was first explored by Jacques Cartier in 1534.  Samuel de Champlain was responsible for establishing the first settlements along the river beginning with Quebec City in 1608. We had traveled southwest on the St. Lawrence from Sorel to Montreal and now will return down river toward Quebec City. Departing the sheltered marina in Montreal, the current was visible as we entered the main channel.   

The Current Was Visible as We Entered the Channel

Sorel, an Industrial Town at the Confluence of the St. Laurence and the Richelieu Rivers

Current on the St. Lawrence travels northeast from Lake Ontario to the Atlantic Ocean, not affected by tides until Trois Rivieres, our first stop on this mighty river. 

Pont (Bridge) Laviotte at the Approach to Trois Rivieres

The Marina at Trois Rivieres

Each village along the bank has a large and beautiful cathedral visible for some distance. 

Cathedral at Vercheres

Cap St. Michele

 

 

Cap de la Madeleine

Cathedral Point Au Piuseaux

The storied Richelieu Rapids was evident as we approached.  It is a location where the channel narrows forcing the water through a narrow passage and causing it to speed up.  Rocks and boulders were visible at the edge of the channel and the topography of the river bank began to rise as well. 

The Change in Topography as we Approached Richelieu Rapids

Exposed Boulders At the Edge of the Channel

Swirling Waters of the Richelieu Rapids

Just beyond the Richelieu Rapids a man-made harbor was visible with high rock jetties to protect it from the river’s strong current.  Entering into the harbor we tied up for the night near a town called Portneuf. 
 

A Man-Made Harbor at Portneuf

Commercial Traffic Passing Close to the Harbor

Encountering commercial traffic is quite common on this busy waterway and when these big freighters are fully loaded they push an amazing amount of water.  

Approaching Traffic Heavily Loaded

A Large Bow Wave is Created by These Vessels

A Cool Rag to Keep Hali Cool, It Was a Very Hot Day!

The cliffs on each side of the river continued to rise as we neared Quebec City.  Soon we reached the twin Bridges just upriver from Quebec City.  The first, the Laporte Suspension Bridge, reportedly the longest suspension bridge in Canada and the second, the Pont de Quebec, is said to be the longest cantilever designed bridge in the world with 1800 feet between piers.

The Twin Bridges

The Range Markers Assist Ships to Stay in the Channel

Soon Cap Diamont was visible with the extraordinary Chateau Frontenac perched atop. 

Beautiful Quebec City

We proceeded to the marina, the entrance of which is guarded by a lock.  Once through the lock, we entered the marina, excited to explore beautiful Quebec City.

The Bridge is Open to Allow Access to the Lock and the Marina Beyond

Entering the Port of Quebec Marina